When they dropped those weird stiff colllars, used for WW1, they went to a more "civilian style" coat. Made from Serge, a good choice of textile. Patch pockets on top, an expensive style, and slit pockets below. When wool ran short in WW1, they moved to slit pockets. A "patch pocket" requires a bit of material sewn onto the coat. A "slit pocket" is just slitting the coat and sewing in an internal pocket. The internal pocket, made from plentiful cotton, reduced the wool used. There was no wool shortage in WW2.
Right before the US entered the war, they added a "bi-swing" back. Popular with the troops, it was later discontinued as the QM itself didn't like it. They actually did a survey with the troops preferring the bi-swing but dropped it in spite of that.
Then came those ridiculous "Ike" jackets. Those make everyone like like a waiter in a sidewalk cafe.
Just over 17 and a half million of the coats were made. Over 23 million Ike jackets were made. Regardless, the 4 pocket wool coat was a nice coat.
We must never forget that it's a government thing. That the "Great Depression" preceded this. Jersey Coat Company reflects that. Textile manufacturing was centered on New York City. Those in Congress wanted the money being spent spread around. To include their districts. The December 1940 contract to Jersey Coat was for 100,000 coats. $396K. Remember, that is for cut and sew only - the government provided the textile and buttons. In April 1941, they received another contract, this time for 50,000 coats. $189K. Why the reduction? Contracts were limited to 50,000 coats per contractor. This gave geographically disperse places, in other Congressional Districts, a chance to get contracts. The bid amount wasn't the deciding factor - bonus points were awarded for many regions. Thus, not being a low bidder didn't mean you didn't get a contract.
July 1942. The War was on. The limits were removed. $354K for coats. The following November they received a contract for $200K more.
In reviewing the coats, an oddity appeared. Contracts were awarded in late 1941. Before Pearl Harbor was attacked. In January 1942, they simply supplemented the contracts. "Make more coats under the previous contract, the caps are off." This results in labels with two different dates with the same contract number.
I like that coat. I think it's a good design.