Understanding Specification Types

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Joseph Farmer
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Understanding Specification Types

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The easiest "types" that people will encounter are the garrison caps and wool blankets. The USA Specification 8-114 provided for both cotton and wool caps. Similarly, the USA Specification 8-111 provided for types; in this case the QM blanket and the Hospital Corps blanket. Ergo, Specifications can provide for multiple "types."

In 1918, General Pershing requested trousers for the troops, instead of the breeches. As a theater commander, that was his prerogative. The Quartermaster General, responsible for the standard Army uniform, didn't like trousers. The QM General didn't have the authority to mandate uniform items used in the combat theater, but did have that ability to mandate the items for use in the U.S.. Wool trousers for enlisted men were an A.E.F. item only - not authorized for use in the U.S..

The trousers Specification used for the A.E.F. trousers used a 20 ounce Melton. This is a woolen textile.

Let's cover the textiles real quick.

Lower quality wool is carded. Then spun into thread. The resulting wool textile is known as a woolen. Blankets are typically woolens.
Higher quality wool is combed. Then spun into thread. The resulting wool textile is known as a worsted. Expensive suits are typically worsted.

The A.E.F. trousers were a Melton. A woolen. A lower quality textile. Scratchy wool.

Some genius decided to make a textile with a worsted warp thread with a woolen weft thread. The QM called this a "Serge." It was actually a very good textile.

Looking at the era of the 1920s and 1930s, we see the following:

Officers. Worsted coat and trousers.
Regular Army enlisted. Serge coats and worsted breeches. That they received worsted breeches is an oddity as that is a very rare case of enlisted of any type receiving a worsted.
Others. Serge or woolen coat. Serge or woolen breeches.

If you peer closer, you'll observe that National Guard troops were being sold inferior quality uniforms. Typical QM practice as the Regular Army had been at war with the Militia for a couple of centuries.

When the "Great Depression" came about, various works programs were started. The massive stockpile of WW1 20 ounce Melton trousers were dumped on them.

When the enlisted were transitioned from breeches to trousers, a serge textile was used for their trousers.

USA Specification 8-83, enlisted wool trousers, thus has at least 2 types: woolen or serge. This is without getting into "protective" and "special" editions. CCC clothing tends to be woolen. They were provided with "Standard USA clothing" in that they received USA Specification 8-83 trousers. As did the enlisted ranks in the Army itself. This doesn't mean they received the same pants - the textile was not the same.

Let's fast forward a bit. P.Q.D. Specification 353 replaced U.S.A. Specification 8-83. At this point, P.Q.D. 353 was the Specification for enlisted trousers. Normally made from Serge. P.Q.D. 49 was the Specification for Officer trousers. Worsted textile.

In addition to the textile, there were "Patterns" involved.

The Officers started complaining about the cost of the worsted trousers as they were being used in the field. They were then provided the option of a Serge trouser. I've seen claims that the Officers were permitted to wear enlisted trousers. This isn't what happened.

P.Q.D. 353 received a revision. Added to the Specification were "Officer Field Trousers." The textile used, Serge, was the same as the enlisted. The Pattern wasn't the same. The "Officer pattern" was used. This only lasted long enough for the the next revision of P.Q.D. 49, when they were moved to that Specification.

Specifications could contain multiple types. That is always reflected in the stock numbers. Specification U.S.A. 8-83 trousers will be observed with stock numbers from different tables. The stock number itself is how the type is determined.

types.jpg
types.jpg (66.75 KiB) Viewed 1947 times

The stock numbers tell the tale. Label on the left has a stock number for regular trousers. Next to it are the "Special" edition. 2nd from right is from a pair of Officer Field Trousers. Serge. Right is the same thing after migration to the P.Q.D. 49 Specification. Stock number table is the same.
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